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Natural Building Techniques

Gabe & Pat with the clay slip mixer

Straw-Clay

Straw-clay (used interchangably with "light clay") is a building material with unique properties. It is a very low-impact material, site-made of unprocessed earth and waste agricultural fiber. In varous forms, straw-&-earth mixtures have a long history of successful use in buildings of many cultures. It is hard, durable, non-toxic, and semi-structural (self-supporting within reasonable limits). It is both a reasonably good insulator and a thermal storage medium. It accepts natural admixtures such as linseed oil, casein and prickly pear extract for greater water-resistance and durability. It handles water vapor well in a cold climate, and it is resistant to rot, vermin and fire.

Although there are many variations and techniques, the process show here describes light wall construction of about 12 to 20 pounds per cubic foot (325 to 817 kilos/cubic meter) with an estimated R-value (a measure of insulating value) of about R-19 (u = .0526 BTU/hr/sq.ft./degree F) for a finished, dry 12" (30 cm) thick wall.

clay and screen for sifting

Visit our section on the Affordable Natural House for more on our research into straw-clay

(left) Clay-rich soil, dry, 'shredded' and ready to mix in the mortar mixer.

The process of constructing a straw-clay wall consists of:

  1. constructing the formwork
  2. mixing the clay slip
  3. coating the straw with slip
  4. placing and compacting the straw-clay
  5. removing the forms
  6. finishing the interior and exterior surfaces
 Mixing slip by hand Adding slip to the straw  tossing and mixing the straw-clay

 Mixing the clay slip...by hand

 Adding slip to the straw

 Making straw-clay

Clay is mixed with water to form slip. Slip can vary in consistency between thin (like cream) and thick (like a milk shake ~~ at least, such comparisons are meaningful in the Dairy State!). We're using a medium thickness here, mixed with an electric mortar mixer with rubber paddle blades. The clay is not a pure potters' clay, but rather simply earth with a high clay content.

A bale of wheat straw (preferred for it's strong, waxy stalk) is opened on a plywood mixing floor. Then clay slip is poured over it and , like dressing on a salad, the straw is tossed until it has just a light coating of clay slip. The mixture's readiness is tested by grasping a bunch of straw in the hand. If it sticks together in a clump, the batch is ready to be compacted into the form. Plywood forms can be washed off and reused for floor or roof sheathing.
formwork ready for filling placing the straw-clay in the forms  legwork - compacting the straw clay

 wall formwork ready for straw-clay

 placing the straw-clay in the forms

 legwork -- compacting the straw-clay

The slip-coated straw is then placed into the forms and compacted. Feet are best; for tight spots we use tampers made from short lengths of 2 x 4. Forms are removed immediately after being filled to the top, to avoid surface mildew growth and to allow the new wall to begin drying immedieately. Depending on the season and the climate (wind and relative humidity), full drying of a 12" thick wall may take a month to several months. In the first week or so wheat grass usually sprouts out of the wall until the wall surface dries.
removing the forms wheatgrass gowing out of the new wall as it dries  using the room

 removing the form as the wall goes up

 wheatgrass growing on the new wall

 The room is usable before plastering.

In this sequence of photos, the work is proceeding by hand. However, farm equipment can be used to mix and deliver the straw clay mixture to the forms. These and other means of simple mechanization can dramatically speed up the labor-intensive process.

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